Amalfi Coast: A Journey Through Italy's Stunning Coastline
An insider's guide to navigating the breathtaking Amalfi Coast - from Naples to Positano and everything in between.
Beginning in Naples: A City of Contrasts
Our Amalfi adventure began in Naples, where we arrived late at night to our centrally located Air BnB. Waking up the next morning, we discovered we were just a 10-minute walk from the iconic statue of Dante and other historic landmarks. I must be honest, Naples wasn't my favourite. Despite its undeniable historical significance and some truly magnificent churches with stunning architecture, the city feels overwhelmed by grime, crowds, and an uncomfortable undercurrent of organised crime influence. It's a city of stark contrasts: magnificent baroque interiors juxtaposed against deteriorating streets..
Sorrento: Where the Journey Truly Begins
Leaving Naples behind, we drove to Sorrento, which felt like a breath of fresh air. This charming coastal town strikes the perfect balance, vibrant but not overwhelming. We easily found parking and strolled into the picturesque town centre, where we enjoyed what might be the quintessential Italian lunch: a fabulous pizza paired with a glass of local wine.
Traveler's Tip: Sorrento makes an excellent base for exploring the region if you prefer a slightly less crowded alternative to staying directly on the Amalfi Coast (and the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is the place to stay if budget is no object!)
The Legendary Amalfi Drive
After lunch, we embarked on what is simultaneously one of the world's most beautiful and nerve-wracking drives - the winding coastal road to Amalfi. While I was familiar with the route, it was my husband's first experience, and I think the extremely narrow, twisting roads came as quite a shock! The drive is not for the faint-hearted, but the panoramic views of the azure Mediterranean Sea and cliffside villages make every hairpin turn worthwhile.
Luxury Stay: Hotel Santa Caterina
We checked into Hotel Santa Caterina, an exceptional property that I've been fortunate enough to visit several times. Perched on the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, this family-run luxury hotel offers the perfect blend of traditional Italian elegance and modern comfort.
That evening, we indulged in dinner at their Michelin-starred restaurant, Glicine. The next morning, we fuelled up with their impressive breakfast buffet, savouring our coffee with breathtaking sea views.
Luxury Insider Tip: Book a sea-view room at Santa Caterina well in advance (at least 6 months), as they're in high demand year-round.
Positano: Fashion and Feasting
From Amalfi, we drove to the picture-perfect village of Positano, with its pastel-coloured buildings cascading down the mountainside. We had planned to take the ferry (a 45-minute journey and much more relaxing alternative to driving), but unfortunately, the sea was too rough that day.
Lunch was at the famous Chez Black, right on the beachfront. Though it's undeniably touristy, it consistently delivers on quality - their beef carpaccio and carbonara are simply unbeatable. After lunch, we enjoyed some light shopping for summer dresses in Positano's boutiques (bringing home some beautiful things for our three daughters!).
The Gardens of Ravello
The following day took us to Ravello, a town nestled higher in the mountains above Amalfi. We visited the magnificent gardens at Villa Cimbrone, where we enjoyed coffee on the terrace overlooking what might be the most spectacular view on the entire coast. The Terrace of Infinity, with its classical marble busts silhouetted against the endless blue sea, is a photographer's dream and a moment of pure magic.
A Step Back in Time: Pompeii
Our final adventure was a visit to the archaeological site of Pompeii. This ancient Roman city, preserved in volcanic ash, is truly extraordinary and a remarkable window into daily life nearly 2,000 years ago. While it's absolutely worth seeing, a few hours was enough for me. Be prepared for crowds and considerable walking.
Visitor's Tip: Hire a guide at Pompeii or you'll miss the historical context that makes many of the ruins meaningful. Also, bring water, sun protection, and comfortable shoes.
Practical Advice for Future Travellers
A few days exploring the Amalfi Coast provides a wonderful taste of the region, but if you can spare it, a week would allow for a more relaxed pace and deeper exploration. Most importantly, avoid visiting during July and August if possible. The narrow roads become hopelessly congested, and you'll spend more time in traffic than enjoying the spectacular scenery and charming towns.
Spring (April-May) and early Autumn (September-October) offer the perfect balance of pleasant weather and more manageable crowds.
Getting Around
Driving: Exciting but stressful. Rent the smallest car possible.
Ferries: The most scenic and relaxing way to travel between coastal towns (weather permitting).
Bus: Economical but can be very crowded in high season.
Private driver: Worth the splurge if your budget allows.
The Amalfi Coast deserves its reputation as one of Italy's most beautiful destinations. With a bit of planning and these insider tips, you can experience its magic while avoiding the worst of the crowds and complications.